Over the past three decades, I've driven a high percentage of the new models carrying the BMW blue and white propeller badge and virtually all have engendered an enthusiastic response.

I first experienced this as a teen in the passenger seat of a neighbour's late-1960s 1600 and later in a 1970s 2002 owned by the photographer of a newspaper I worked on.

Neither let me drive, but I was particularly envious of the latter. I still wonder just what photos were in his files to allow him to afford this wonderful little car as our slim pay packets were much the same.

It was with only mild surprise then that I discovered this spell-working BMW essence -- a distillation of the visual combined with sound, touch and dynamic feel plus perhaps a dash of history -- present in the 2005 X3 3.0i, a sport utility vehicle. Okay, in the X3 3.0i's case, we're talking eau de toilette rather than full-strength perfume, but it's still heady enough to attract.

The X3, which was new in 2004, is available as a 2.5i and the 3.0i reviewed here. The 3.0i lists at $49,900, but ours came with large panorama sunroof, auto-dimming mirror, HiFi sound system, terracotta ambiance leather-clad sports seats, a sport suspension, leather-wrapped wheel, adaptive headlights and 18-inch alloy wheels. All of which brought the price to a stiff $57,590.

Externally there's enough of the BMW look, even in SUV guise, to ensure ready brand recognition. Probably a good thing as, unlike many luxury utes, it isn't physically imposing. In fact, at 4,565 mm it is only 28 mm longer overall than a Honda CR-V.

Swing up, not too awkwardly, into the driving position and it looks and feels like a BMW inside, too. There are easily read, round-dialled analogue instruments, a hand-filling steering wheel and a centre stack with audio and climate controls that are clearly marked and reachable.

A little startling, perhaps, was the choice of orangey baseball-glove leather for those optional sports seats. Perhaps in some interior designer's mind this hints at riding-off-into-the sunset adventure -- the X3 3.09i is a capable enough mount for trail riding, but you might want to avoid indulging in serious off-road activities. Perhaps it's just an example of that German penchant for odd seating materials.

The rest of the interior trappings are standard BMW fare, a little more functional than elegant, but showing obvious quality of materials and fit and finish.

All the usual amenities are there to make life easier and more pleasant. Crash safety is addressed by front, thorax and side curtain airbag systems.

The interior space allows seating for four in comfort and 480 litres of cargo room with the rear seat upright, 1,560 litres with it folded. That's adequate, but not very clever when you consider the smaller CR-V's designers managed to find 949 litres and 2,039 litres of cargo space.

But practicality isn't everything. Twist the key and another of those traditional BMW sensations makes its presence felt.

The engine in the X3 3.0i is a 3.0-litre, twin-cam inline six, a configuration BMW has brought to a state of near grace over the years. At 6,000-plus rpm, it whirs like a blender full of breakfast smoothie. And along the way, it makes 225 hp at 5,900 rpm and 214 lb-ft of torque at 3,500 rpm with the help of stepless variable valve control.

That's not huge amounts of either, but a glance down at the centre console reveals a short, sturdy lever linked to a gearbox crammed with no less than six speeds (a five-speed autobox is optional).

And by stirring these appropriately you can whip up a satisfying level of performance: 0-100 km/h in about eight seconds and an 80-to-120 km/h passing or merging time of just 5.7 seconds (using third gear).

The X3's all-wheel-drive system is both compact and clever and works with the vehicle stability control electronics to continuously apportion power between front and rear axles as required by slippery conditions.

In typical BMW fashion, the X3's monocoque structure feels rigid and provides a solid base for the strut-type front and integral four-link independent front and rear suspensions. While 17-inch wheels are standard, our test truck came with those good-looking 18-inch optional alloys.

Four large-diameter discs with purposeful-looking calipers work through a firm pedal to deliver reassuring stopping power. Driving aids include dynamic stability, hill descent and brake control along with ABS.

Early versions of the X3 were criticized for a harsh ride.

I found it decidedly firm but not uncomfortably or distractingly so, and certainly worth the handling benefits.

And this one came with the optional sport suspension, remember. The X3 steers with much of the directness BMW's sedans are noted for and changes direction with more willingness than any other sport ute I've ever driven.

Incidentally, while I've made much of the BMW "essence," the X3 is actually built in Graz Austria by Magna Steyr, which is part of Frank Stronach's Canadian-based Magna auto parts empire that also builds some Jeep, Mercedes and Saab products.

Despite this bit of production pragmatism, if I had to buy an SUV, the X3 3.0i would be prominent on my short list of choices.

Specifications

BMW X3 3.0i

Type: Luxury mid-size SUV

Price: $49,900/as tested $57,590

Engine: 3.0-litre, DOHC, inline six

Transmission: Six-speed manual

Output: 225 hp/214 lb-ft of torque

Fuel economy (litres/100 km): 13.8 city/8.8 highway

Alternatives: Volvo XC90, Land Rover Freelander, Mercedes ML350

Like: Its BMW-ness -- engine, gearbox, handling and brakes

Don't like: Seat leather, limited cargo space, price