MUNICH -- I am screaming along the autobahn at 160 km/h, riding a dual-sport BMW R1200GS, buffeted by the wind and passed regularly on the left by station wagons, sedans and the odd motorbike.
One hundred miles an hour on the back of BMW's best-selling motorcycle seems plenty fast, but I am a dawdler compared to some of the traffic here in southern Germany.
I know the bike will go faster because some of my riding buddies with the same model left me behind moments ago. They were up to 200 km/h or better.
The bike has high-speed stability, but that really isn't what the 1200GS is all about.
BMW's motorcycle best-seller, updated with (among other things) much better engine performance and less weight, is more about riding on bad roads, off the road entirely and tackling twisty bits than it is about tearing down stretches of highway where the only limit on speed is the driver's skill and the vehicle's engineering.
The limits of the GS, of course, have been stretched considerably for 2004. The engine itself is up 40 cc thanks to a longer stroke, and combined with many other changes, BMW says power and torque are up 15 per cent to 98 horsepower.
Certainly there's plenty of jam when you twist the throttle -- even though the bike I am riding is loaded up with very full saddle bags.
My three-day tour of the Alps leading up to the autobahn stretch proved that most twists and turns going up and down tall peaks and through mountain passes can be done easily in third gear.
More specifically, even at less than 2,000 rpm, there is usable power. Then, there is a good surge at 3,000 rpm and the engine goes strong right to the 8,000 rpm cutoff. This is a flexible motor.
Smooth, too. BMW Canada's motorcycle sales manager Norm Wells tells me this is the first balance-shaft-equipped Boxer motor from BMW.
The twin horizontally-opposed cylinders should be smooth enough with a balance shaft (and they deliver a lower centre of gravity to boot) but BMW went this extra step to reduce vibrations further, apparently at higher speeds.
The six-speed gearbox mated to the engine has also been reworked. Three days of rowing the gears up and down left me with no complaints about missed shifts or false neutrals. First gear is tall, but that does help in lower-speed manoeuvres, and the hydraulically operated clutch is light and effective.
More interesting than the power train is the weight loss for this bike -- 12 per cent, from 228 kg to 199 kg. This is a big bike and equipped with twin bags it doesn't feel exactly undersized. But compared to the previous 1150GS (which I rode back-to-back for this test) it is vastly more nimble and responsive.
Part of that, of course, is due to the suspension: the Telelever front and Paralever rear combo. The front has a lot of suspension travel, but that's what you want when you leave the pavement. The ride feels soft and even a bit numb compared to sportier bikes, but it is surprising how well this big Beemer can corner when pushed.
Also useful for zig-zagging down mountain passes were the semi-integral brakes, which have the front operating both it and the rear in proper balance. This setup makes it easy to get the braking right in tight, high-speed downhills. My tester was also equipped with anti-lock braking with a turn-off button. Fortunately, I never got into it.
I did get into the bags, though, new ones for the new bike. The heavy-duty bags expand about 10 cm, which is good for loading but can be tricky if you are riding through narrow spots. It is easy to forget you have such wide cargo in back. I never slapped them, but could see the possibilities.
Fortunately, the storage is very sturdy. So is the mounting system, which is a bit tricky to master. In addition, closing stuffed bags also requires careful attention to lining up the door. I found these bags more finicky than some.
The truth is, no one along our 900-km route asked about the bags, but more than one person at our cappuccino stops commented on the 1200GS's looks.
Most liked it, but then again, one out of every five European motorcycle owners rides a BMW (the company has almost 20 per cent of the market).
Personally, I think it looks rugged rather than sleek, solid not sporty.
The windscreen, though small, does a good job controlling blasts of air at the rider. I also think the silver, black and yellow colours of my tester suited a dual-purpose bike just fine. Overall, I would not argue this is a gorgeous piece.
So would I buy one? Not me personally; I just wouldn't ride it enough to justify the $17,850 price tag.
But for those who take long trips with the chance of bad roads or no roads at all, this seems an excellent machine.
Specifications
2004 BMW R1200GS
Price: $17,850
Engine: 1,170-cc horizontally opposed (Boxer), water-cooled (SOHC)
Output: 98 hp at 7,000 rpm/115 Newton metres of torque at 5,500 rpm
Transmission: Six-speed manual
Fuel economy (litres/100 km): 4.5L/100 km at a constant 90 km/h
Like: Dual-purpose functionality, good high-speed stability, easy to handle for a big bike, large bags, balanced braking
Don't like: Softish suspension, not stunning in terms of looks
